Saturday 11 December 2010

It's International Mountains Day...How to Climb a Mountain

It's International Mountains Day...How to Climb a Mountain

Mountain climbing is viewed by some as an extreme sport, while for
others it is simply an exhilarating pastime that offers the ultimate
challenge of strength, endurance, and sacrifice. It can be highly
dangerous, even fatal, especially when the climber is out of his or
her depth, or simply gets overwhelmed by weather, terrain, ice, or
other dangers of the mountain. Inexperience, poor planning, and
inadequate equipment can all contribute to injury or death, so
knowing what to do right matters.

Despite all the negatives, when done right, mountain climbing is an
exciting, exhilarating, and rewarding experience. This article is an
overview beginner's guide and outlines the initial basics to learn; in
reality, each step is deserving of an article in its own right, and
entire tomes have been written on climbing mountains, so you're
advised to spend a good deal of your beginner's learning immersed in
reading widely. This basic overview will give you an idea of what is
involved in a climb.

!! Steps !!

Do your research. Before you even set out to climb mountains, do as
much reading as you can about the skills needed and about other
people's experiences. It is as important to understand the mental
effort required to climb a mountain as it is to be fit, and know how
to use the equipment properly, and one of the best ways of
understanding this is to read the stories of mountaineers who have
climbed challenging, interesting, or many mountains. Many bookstores
now carry sections specifically devoted to the craft of mountain
climbing, so it won't be hard to find good books.

* A good starter book is the one by Steve M Cox and Kris Fulaas,
_Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills_.

* Watch DVDs about mountain climbing experiences. There are many
good documentaries and movies focused on mountain climbing
available.

* Learn about the best times to climb mountains in different regions
of the world. If you're able to and interested in traveling to
mountains beyond your own country, this can open up more
opportunities with differing alpine seasons around the world. For
example, the best climbing in Europe is June to September, in New
Zealand it's December to March, and in Alaska it's June and July.
Within these generalized climbing seasons there are marked
variations of suitability dependent on the amount of people
climbing, the weather variations that cannot be predicted until
they occur and the reality that some seasons are good and some are
bad.

* Learn all that you can about weather conditions and mountains.
Mountains create their own weather systems (micro-climates). Learn
how to read portents of bad weather, how to read the clouds, how
to test wind direction, and understand what weather changes
throughout the day mean for your climb. Learn how to respond to
lightning strikes.

Assess your mental strength. A lot of mountain climbing is about
your mental attitude because you will need to make sound, fast
judgments about conditions, directions, and safety. For many
mountaineers, the mental challenge is a large part of the allure
because you are taken completely out of your usual routine of
air-conditioned offices and easy lifestyles into a world where
decision-making has major consequences and you're thoroughly tested.
Some things to ask yourself include:[1]

* Do you panic easily or resort to making rash decisions? This kind
of temperament is dangerous when climbing a mountain, which needs
a steady head, calm and clear thinking, and an ability to work out
the best solution quickly.

* Are you able to push past pain barriers or do you prefer to give
up and find something else less strenuous to do?

* Are you positive by nature but also realistic and honest with
yourself? Overconfidence is not desirable as it can lead you into
severe trouble when climbing.

* Are you a good problem-solver?

Hiking is a good start Get fit. Mountain climbing requires good
fitness and endurance skills because it is an intensely demanding
physical activity. You can't simply turn up for a big climb after a
relatively sedentary office desk lifestyle. Train for fitness and
strength in ways that benefit you best. The types of fitness regimes
that might help you include:

* Running and jogging, including endurance running.

* Walking and hiking, with the hiking become increasingly arduous,
perhaps including scrambling.

* Weightlifting, or walking and running with weights in a backpack
or held in your hands as you go uphill.

* Climbing practice - local walls, ice climbing lessons and glacier
walking can all be useful training.

* Skiing and snowboarding (especially if you intend to use these as
means for returning after a climb, which is really extreme but
possible on some mountains).

* Anything that improves strength and endurance, the two essentials
for peak physical fitness when mountain climbing.

Acquire the gear. Mountain climbing gear is very specific and
absolutely essential. You have two options – buying your own or
hiring it. If you decide to purchase your own, this will be
initially expensive but if done gradually, it's a good option as you
can be sure everything is fitted to you exactly, and if you plan on
climbing more than one mountain, it's a good investment. If you're
hiring gear, you won't be guaranteed ideal fit and the items will
obviously be used but if you use a reputable outfitter, they will be
able to provide quality, tested items. It's probably a good idea to
hire for the first experience to see if you even enjoy mountain
climbing, and then decide whether or not to start assembling your
own gear. Even with hiring, there will still be items you need to
purchase for yourself, such as your wick-away clothing layers, and
perhaps your boots, as clothing items are far more important to get
fitted properly than the ice axe or the crampons, etc.

* See the list under "Things You'll Need" for a good starting list
of equipment.

* Be aware that mountaineers are obsessed with weight, and with good
reason. You have to carry everything with you all the way up that
mountain. Be loaded down by inessential gear is not an option for
a mountain-climber and mountaineers are always looking for ways to
cut weight without cutting corners on safety. This can increase
costs as lightweight materials like titanium will cost more than
their heavier counterparts.

Protect mountain fragility Learn about mountaineering ethics.
Knowing how to climb a mountain isn't just about the physical and
mental aspects. Many mountains are located in remote areas of the
world and your climbing can have an impact on the local environment.
It is a privilege to be able to climb pristine mountains and most
mountaineers are very concerned to keep mountains in their original
condition, as well as not abusing local amenities or running
roughshod over local cultures.

* Learn the Leave No Trace set of principles.[2]

* Tread softly, be an advocate for wilderness protection, and obtain
all necessary permits.

* Read the Climbing Code. This code was developed for safety
purposes and is essential reading for beginners.[3][4]

* No mountain climb should ever be attempted alone; at the very
least, climb with friends who have already climbed mountains.

Get training. If you intend on doing your first climb as a course
for beginners, then the course will serve as your initial training.
On the other hand, if you're planning to climb with a companion, you
may need to undertake some basic training before setting off unless
you're prepared to "learn as you go" with your guide. A mountain
club can offer you specialized courses in such skills as (and you
need to know them all):

* Ice climbing, cutting ice steps, using the ice axe.

* Self-arrest techniques.

* Glissading (a descending technique) in which you slide down, using
your ice axe to check your speed.

* Crossing crevasses and crevasse rescue techniques, and crossing
snow bridges.

* Using your crampons, including putting them on, walking in them,
and specific techniques, etc.

* Glacier walking.

* Various climbing techniques and skills, including route finding,
map reading, using pitons, wedges, and bolts, knot tying, rope
management and use (belaying, etc.)

* Avalanche safety training. This is usually a distinct course and
you can join courses offered in many places around the world,
usually for skiers and snowboarders, but also some tailored to
mountaineers and rescue professionals. This course is useful even
if you don't keep up your mountain climbing but continue to
participate in winter sports.

* Basic first aid techniques and rescue signals should also be
learned as part of your training.

Find a good non-technical "walk up" mountain to start with Plan your
first climb. Your first ascent should be one suited to a beginner and
preferably with an experienced guide. The level of difficulty of a
mountain is affected by both its altitude and its terrain. Mountains
are graded from easy to extremely difficult, with many gradations in
between. A beginner mountaineer should always ascend an "easy"
mountain to begin with, while still taking all necessary precautions
because a mountain is still a mountain, no matter how "easy" it is
considered. Different countries assign different grade systems, so
you'll need to do a little research first. You'll also need to
understand rock pitches (from very difficult to hard, very severe)
and ice pitches if rock and ice pitches (alpine and waterfall ice)
are an issue on the mountain sought to be climbed.

* Try non-technical "walk-up" mountains to begin with, such as Mount
Elbert and Mount Kilimanjaro. These will help you learn what it
feels like to climb higher, to learn about weather changes, and to
get a feel for the energy expended.[5]

* The "where" will be up to where you live and how much your budget
stretches but it's recommended that you aim low for your first
climb or climbs. That way, you'll start to get the feel for
climbing, minor altitude changes, and you'll be able to spend more
time concentrating on technique rather than worrying about
exposure, oxygen deprivation, and lack of skills to cope. Remember
that every climb can be that little bit harder and higher, so
don't try to overdo it to begin with.

* Research the intended climb well. Check out the region, the
weather patterns for the time of year you're intending to climb,
the known hazards, and each possible way of ascending the
mountain. For a beginner, always choose the routes most
recommended for the easiest climb, and ask guides or locals if
this is not clear.

* Find out what service huts and other amenities are available at
the base and along the way. Find out what rules there are about
using facilities and payments required.

* Find maps of the climb and learn all that you can about the
routes. Maps should always accompany you on a climb; trim the
edges if you're worried about added weight.

Keep improving your skills and trying harder mountain climbs. Next,
try glaciated peak mountains which require gear and basic mountain
technical skills. Volcanoes tend to form great beginner mountains of
this type and with basic training, you should be able to accomplish
them easily. Examples include Mt. Blanc, Mt. Rainer, Mt. Baker, and
volcanoes in Ecuador and Mexico, as well as trekking mountains in
Nepal.[6] Grand Teton and Mt. Stuart can be climbed at this stage if
you have good rock-climbing skills.

* Move on to expedition peaks which require long walk-ins, good
technical climbing skills, and all-round mountaineering knowledge.
From here, the sky is the limit.

Find a good guide. One of the best things you can do is to join a
mountain climbing club near you. From this club, you'll soon connect
into other clubs through a shared network and you'll be able to find
good, trusted, and reputable guides through clubs. The great thing
about clubs is that they will arrange group climbs, which are often
targeted at beginner to intermediate climbers, so you can learn the
skills while having fun meeting other like-minded climbers.

* Spend time talking to experienced climbers in club meetings. They
can tell you a great deal more than you'll ever learn just from
reading, and they may even end up offering to mentor you or at
least put you on to the right people who can help you on your way.

* Climbing clubs tend to tackle more technically difficult mountains
than commercial outfitters. As your climbing skills improve, bear
this in mind when you want to extend your abilities.

Prepare for the trip. If your mountain is close by, there will be
less to arrange than if it requires travel to reach. If you don't
live near mountains, you'll need to travel and book accommodation,
and if this travel includes flying overseas, you'll also need to
take into account baggage allowances and visa requirements, etc. In
both cases, consider ensuring that you have insurance for equipment
loss, and for medical evacuation, injury, and death.

* Pack your gear with care. If your ice axe, crampons, boots, and
other gear need to fly, pack with great care. Some of these items
can tear through bags easily and rip other people's stuff or
falling out and getting lost. When driving, be sure to place your
gear in a safe place to prevent it flying forward if you have to
brake suddenly.

* Check whether you need permits. Many popular mountains now require
permits for safety, control, and environmental reasons.

* Even if a permit is not required, you should always find out where
to leave details of your intended journey and make sure to leave
your departure and expected return times with local officials who
have responsibility for the mountain area, as well as with family
and friends.

Understand what's involved on arrival at the mountain. Prior to the
climb, it is usual to set up a base camp. If you're climbing with a
course, they may have a permanent hut at base camp, so inquire when
booking your course. The base camp serves as the departure point and
you can sometimes spend considerable time here just waiting for
weather improvements, depending on the difficulty of the mountain
and the climb. For less treacherous mountains, base camp may be
merely the first night's stop off before you head off for the climb
with your companion or group.

* Use this time to double and triple check your gear. Check that you
have everything you need (taking a list is helpful) and check that
everything is in good working order.

* Check any other supplies required, such as food, water, clothing,
etc.

* Spend time talking to your guide or companion about the route and
what's to be expected by way of hazards, weather conditions,
likely problem areas, and any other issues needing to be covered.
Look over your map of the area and know the route well in your
mind. Look for any other possible routes that might be needed as
safety exits should anything go wrong.

* Exercise by stretching, walking, running, etc. – whatever you
usually do to continue staying fit.

* Eat a good meal and get to bed early.

Begin climbing. This step is simply an overview, for the actual
climb requires many different techniques and is contextual to the
mountain. This is where reading detailed books about your intended
mountain climb is invaluable, along with talking to climbers who
have already summitted it. Most climbs begin _very_ early in the
morning to ensure that you have time to come back down before
darkness, or if you're sleeping on the mountain, to ensure you reach
a suitable place for sleeping each night. After checking you have
everything you need (which you should have packed the night before),
and having a hearty breakfast, set out on your climb with your guide
or experienced companion. Put into action all of the skills that you
have trained for before reaching this mountain.

* Stick to your route unless there are major encumbrances preventing
you from doing so.

* Follow what your guide asks you to do. As a beginner, heed the
wisdom of the experienced while still using your own judgment and
being responsible.

* Take regular short breaks to eat energy foods, rest briefly and to
assess your direction. However, don't linger too long where you
cool down too much.

* Keep hydrated. It's easy to dehydrate in the cold because your
body doesn't seem thirsty, so be sure to keep drinking fluids
regularly.

* Stay with the other climbers at all times.

* Enjoy the summit. Take photos and feel proud.

Descend with plenty of time to get back safely. Be aware that the
descent is hard and dangerous. While it may seem easier than going
up, this is the time that accidents are most likely to occur, and
when concentration tends to lapse.

* Stay focused on finding good footholds when scrambling, and
climbing down.

* Scramble where it is safe to do so. It is faster and easier to
scramble facing out.

* Be very careful when abseiling; end-of-the-day abseiling tends to
have high accident rates because people get tired, misplace
anchors, have slings break, and generally don't stay as alert as
is needed.

* Keep falling rocks, avalanches, and weakened snow and snow bridges
in mind as you descend.

* Keep roped. It might feel like you're almost at the base when
crossing that last glacier but if you're unroped and fall down a
crevasse, that's it.

!! Video !!

!! Tips !!

* Climb in groups and with experienced climbers. Never climb alone;
if you think this point is being rammed home, there is good reason
for it!

* Keep hydrated. Cold weather tends to fool people into thinking
they're not thirsty but the cold plus the high level of activity
means that it is important to maintain your liquids at all times.

* Know the signs of oxygen deprivation, exhaustion, and hypothermia;
this isn't just for yourself but also for others, as you need to
know if someone has become delirious and is pushing on despite the
reality that they should turn around and get help or medical
attention.

* Unless there are toilets on the climb, carry out all personal
waste.

* Always put caution before bravado. It's better to come home and
try again than to go too far and never return.

* This is a sport "for life". You can enjoy mountain climbing at
many ages, provided you remain fit and have the right mindset.

!! Warnings !!

* Mountain climbing is an extreme and dangerous sport. Train with
an experienced climber before attempting your first climb. Don't
climb alone.

* Don't attempt any challenging mountain climb until you have good
solid experience with lesser mountains and their challenges. And
be fully aware of just how dangerous high mountain climbing is.
The most dangerous climbs are (2008 figures): Annapurna (8,091 m),
where 130 climbers have summitted Annapurna, while 53 have died.
The overall fatality rate is thus 41 percent; Nanga Parbat
(8,125m) where 216 climbers have summitted Nanga Parbat and 61
have died. The overall fatality rate thus 28.24 percent; and K2
(8,611 m), where 198 climbers have summitted the world's second
highest peak and 53 have died. K2's overall fatality rate is
26.77%. [7]

!! Things You'll Need !!

* Warm clothing (no cotton); use layers that wick away moisture,
extra socks, gloves, balaclava or face mask, extra socks (you
can't have too many socks)

* Climbing boots with crampons; be aware that it can months and even
years to find the "right" boot. Look online and overseas if your
local stores don't stock comfortable enough boots. Do your
research into climbing boots, as these must be just right or
you'll suffer

* Ice axe, ice hammer

* Helmet

* Gaiters

* Harness, belay break

* Head lamp

* Backpack – choose one that is lightweight but strong, large
enough to carry all your needs but not bulky, and with hooks for
the ice axe and crampons to hang through

* Ropes and carabiners (karabiners) – do *not* buy flimsy
carabiners used as toys or decorative wear; these must be the
strong ones made for mountaineering; they are expensive and are
usually kept behind counters

* Tape for abseil loops

* Ice screws, nuts, slings, etc. – note that these items are
dependent on the type of mountain climbed, be sure to know well in
advance

* First aid kit (small)

* Sunscreen and lip salve, sunglasses, goggles

* Tent (this must be one that is able to withstand high wind and
snow; these types of tents tend to be highly specialized and the
most expensive; or a bivouac

* Sleeping bag – mountain quality

* Cooking supplies (be sure to get a cooking appliance that is
lightweight and will light under dreadful conditions of cold and
wind) and lightweight utensils and mug, plate

* Food – high energy food is a must. Read up on the types of food
supplies, usually high in fat (chocolate, nuts, sweets, cookies
(biscuits), condensed milk, cheese, dried fruit, sugar lumps,
olive oil, energy bars, etc.)

* Water, reconstituted fruit drink (powder)

* Straw to allow you to suck trickles of water from rocks or pools
along the way as additional hydration

* Pocket knife (small)

* Feces and urine removal kit & loo paper (yes, there are unpleasant
but necessary aspects to being a human)

* Climbing permit

* Map

* Compass, GPS perhaps

* Camera (optional but there are good lightweight ones available
now) – be aware that cold batteries don't work. You may need to
keep batteries warm in a pocket and then fumble them into the
camera when needed

* Passport if crossing borders (for example, in Europe)

!! Related WikiHows !!

* How to Make a Rope Harness

* How to Be Prepared for a Hike

* How to Have More Endurance

* How to Begin Glacier Climbing

* How to Climb a 14er

* How to Climb a Rope

!! Sources And Citations !!

!! Article Tools !!

* Read on wikiHow

*

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